Road Trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico
via Chimayó, Taos, San Luis, La Veta Pass.
(17th to 20th May 2012)

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Santa Fe, New Mexico Road Trip    
"The secret to Santa Fe is in the details". Adrienne Petterson (May 2012)

Santa Fe, New Mexico has also been on my dream list as a travel destination for many years.  I was deliriously happy when I could put together a three-night road trip to this artsy destination.  Just three of the things I really wanted to see were The Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, the Loretto Chapel, and the Palace of the Governors, all of which I got to visit.  Do spend time online researching what you would like to see when you visit Santa Fe, as it will save a lot of time and maximize your visit.

All of my expectations about Santa Fe were met and surpassed.  There is such a lot to see and do in this very pretty and easy-to-navigate city.  It's the country's first capital city and has the oldest house in America to its name.  Apart from the natural attraction of artwork and artists, the climate is great and there is also some superb skiing in winter.  My first night was spent at the Hacienda Nicholas Bed and Breakfast.  After checking in, the friendly and helpful Merrilee suggested I go to Whole Foods for something to eat, which I did.  I chose a few salads and a piece of chicken.  They sold single beers so I bought one as well which I enjoyed al fresco outside my B&B room.  I turned in early to be ready for the busy day ahead of me.

My first day of sightseeing began before breakfast with a walk up Paseo de Peralta to a commemorative walkway (lookout) over the city.  It's a great little climb to the top of the hill for a lovely view over the city, and where a large white cross has been erected.  There is also an historical account of Santa Fe which you read as you progress up the hill.  The weather was gorgeous and fresh at 7.30am and there wasn't a cloud in the sky.  (From the B&B walk to Paseo de Peralta, turn right, and follow the curve in the road until you see a little archway on the right which is the entrance to the lookout, opposite Farm to Table at 618 Paseo de Peralta.)  Directly outside the B&B is a cute little triangle of a park (the Thomas Macaione Park) with the prettiest benches and a bronze of a painter at work.  As you navigate throughout the city, you come across many such statues and "moments" which are often a photograph waiting to be taken.

I returned to the B&B for breakfast and to ready myself for my visit to the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.  Before I went to the museum, I walked past the St. Francis Cathedral and thought I'd pop in for a quick visit.  However, there was a high school graduation going on inside and the cathedral wouldn't be open to the public until much later in the day.  So, I went to the Loretto Chapel just down the street to see the famous "miracle staircase".  What a gorgeous little chapel this turned out to be.  The staircase is lit and not useable by the public, but great to look at and admire.  Do listen to the story about how this staircase was built and the mystery behind its allure.  I walked up and through the Plaza, popped in briefly to the famous La Fonda hotel (I thought it was wonderful) and then headed to the O'Keeffe museum.

The Georgia O'Keeffe museum is a gorgeous building housing many of Ms. O'Keeffe's work, and you can enjoy a short lecture on her life or watch a short and informative film.  I saw some of her beautiful calla lily paintings but the more well-known weren't on exhibit, probably out on loan.  The exhibit I did see was "Georgia O'Keeffe and the Faraway: Nature and Image" exhibit, which is on view until May 5, 2013.  I marveled at the ingenuity of the woman, her interest in the countryside, her determination, and naturally, her talent.  Do stop by the gift shop as you can get some beautiful books of Ms. O'Keeffe's work.  I indulged in a booklet of 30 postcards of her flowers for just $9.95.  I loved these two Georgia O'Keeffe quotes that I got from the museum: "When I was as Mabel[Dodge Luhan]'s at Taos...there was an alfalfa field like a large green saucer.  On one side of the field was a path lined with day walking down the patch I picked a large blackish red hollyhock and some bright dark blue larkspur that immediately went into a painting—and then another painting."  Georgia O'Keeffe, 1996.  "I have things in my head that are not like what anyone has taught me—shapes and ideas so near to me—so natural to my way of being and thinking that it hasn't occurred to me to put them down.  I decided to start anew to strip away what I had been taught."  Georgia O'Keeffe, 1935.  You are not allowed to take photos inside the museum, but there are a couple I took at the New Mexico Museum of Art.

I then proceeded to walk back to the plaza and check out the Native American/Indian vendors and artists whose work is stunning, and a lot cheaper than what you'd pay in the stores.  Lots of turquoise, obviously, but a variety of other jewelry items made in copper, brass, and beads among other things.  Earrings, belt buckles, bracelets, pendants, necklaces, bookmarks, and more.  Santa Fe has so many jewelry stores and art shops (not to mention galleries), that it's a veritable shopper's paradise.  This walkabout took up most of my morning so I headed off to get the car and go in search of the famous Trader Joe's.  I found it but didn't quite see what all the hype was about.  I did get a few things that were just a little cheaper, but I wouldn't make the five-hour drive just to shop there as I've heard a few people back home do. 

After all this walking around, I made my way to the El Farolito Bed and Breakfast where I was to spend my second night.  I love walking around, so after checking in, I proceeded to walk up Galisteo Street back towards the plaza and to take advantage of the free entrance on Fridays between 5 pm and 8 pm at the Palace of the Governors.  What an interesting place to visit!  The history of the city is all laid out for you.  I also got to see the History Museum behind the Palace which was also a very worthwhile visit as it has everything about New Mexico.  I was heading home across the plaza when I heard a woman say to her companions that they were going "over there (pointing to a building across the plaza), where it's free", so I followed only to discover that the New Mexico Museum of Art was also open.  Do yourself a huge favor and visit this museum.  There was an artist giving a talk about her work, her inspiration, technique, and everything else you wanted to know.  You can take photos (no flash) and there is so much to see and enjoy, like some Georgia O'Keeffe paintings, photographs, historical information, and lots of artwork.

Tip: Parking in Santa Fe isn't a lot of fun mainly because there are parking meters to feed, and the streets are so narrow that manuvering in and out of parking spaces can be challenging.  There are however, many public parking buildings you can make use of if you prefer to drive.  There are buses that go everywhere so you might want to look into that.

After a yummy breakfast, Saturday morning turned out to be a little chilly, so I took my sweater with me as I started another walking trip.  I headed out along Galisteo Street to E. De Vargas where I turned right and walked in search of "the oldest house in the United States".  I found it tucked away opposite the San Miguel Mission, the oldest church in the USA.  I didn't go inside the church because it was locked.  Directly behind the church is the Visitors' Center.

I made an "S" turn by turning left onto Paseo de Peralta and a right onto Canyon Road in search of the famous gallery row.  One mile of galleries and restaurants to feast the eyes and stomach.  There are so many galleries to choose from that it became difficult deciding which ones to visit.  I chose randomly as I didn't have anything in particular that I wanted to see.  However, what I did see, blew my mind.  The work was so beautiful and varied that I highly recommend you spend some time walking and popping into galleries.  There are restaurants aplenty as well.

After my little cultural trip, I headed back and cut across to East Alameda Street and back into town.  I finally got to see the inside of the St. Francis Cathedral, and the wait was worth it.  Take your time to enjoy the beautiful stained glass inside and the statues outside.  It was a very spiritual visit and worth going to see.  Outside the cathedral on the forecourt, is a labyrinth inlaid in the brickwork which is pretty.  There are also lovely gardens where you can walk around or sit on one of the benches and contemplate.  Another thing I did was walk back along East Palace Avenue, took a left on Cienega Street to E. Marcy Street, where I visited the Verve Gallery of Photography.  What a breath of fresh air.  I was warmly greeted and offered some water by Dana.  Do visit this gallery if you like photography.

By this time I'd walked off my breakfast and was looking forward to an Indian (the country India) meal at the India Palace Restaurant (227 Don Gaspar—set back from the road in the parking lot).  They offer a lunch buffet for $9.50 (plus tax) which was quite nice.  I opted to sit in the covered patio which was highly decorated and a lot of fun.  The meal consisted of Chicken Tandoori, Basmati Rice, Chicken Makhani (rather like a tikka sauce but not as tasty), Beef Kofta Curry, Aloo Masala (potatoes in a curry sauce), Dal Makhani, and my favorite, Saag Paneer (sautéed spinach with homemade cheese) which turned out to be kind of blah.  A few salads were also on offer and condiments were on hand.  There were three kinds of "bread", one of which was Idly (rice flour and lentil cakes) but I chose to have the garlic naan bread.  Sadly I couldn't taste the garlic despite it being visible.  Dessert came in the form of fresh fruits (oranges, grapes, watermelon) as well as mango custard and Kheer (saffron-flavored Basmati rice with milk and almonds) both of which were passable.  While I enjoyed my meal, it was nowhere near the quality or variety on offer back home in Colorado Springs.

After lunch I returned to the El Farolito to pick up the car and go and see the Santuario de Guadalupe church, a very old and very plain-looking church.  The gorgeous rose garden is worth a visit in itself.

I had to check in to my last B&B the El Paradero Bed and Breakfast, and then go and see one more thing on my agenda, a visit to the Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary.  You get there by driving all the way up Canyon Road until you arrive at the center which has a parking lot and restrooms and an information center.  I spent about an hour in the late afternoon taking pictures of hummingbirds, which was a treat for me.  There were a number of feeders out and all were well visited by the beautiful hummingbirds.  There is a walking trail (for a fee) which you can take, but I didn't as I felt I'd walked enough all day.  I missed the 4-5pm afternoon tea back at the El Farolito which was sad, but I did get a couple of brownies!

By this time I was really pooped and decided to spend some time in my room writing this story.  I had the choice of writing in my room, using the sitting room inside the main building, sitting outside on the patio, or working in the library.  I just wanted some peace and quiet so I stayed in my room for a while.  There wasn't a television in the room so I read some travel brochures, had a lovely shower, and went to bed early, ready for the next leg of my trip.
The five-hour drive on the Interstate to Santa Fe proved to be tiresome, so I changed my homeward route to include stops in Chimayó and Taos.  See the route I took.

So after breakfast on Sunday morning, I headed off on US-84/285 north to Española where I turned right (McDonald's is on your left) onto NM-76 for a few miles until the sign on the right for the El Santuario de Chimayó.

This is where the famous "holy dirt" is available, on the left side of the church.  (Make sure you bring along a little ziplock bag or a small container of sorts.)  The grounds are gorgeous and turns out to be a very peaceful place to walk around.  This church has been the destination of many, many pilgrimages for those who need healing, thanksgiving or favors from their God.
The road out of Chimayó is very nice, and along the way I stopped to take a photo or two, and thought how reminiscent the area looked of some cowboy movies I'd seen.  I half expected a few gun-toting lawmen to come galloping around one of the bushes.  I drove through little towns called Cordova, Truchas, Las Trampas, Chamisal, and Peñasco before reaching Taos.  A blissfully quiet and pretty drive.  It's called the High Road to Taos.  You continue on NM-76 until you reach NM-75 for a short while, and then you get onto NM-518 which hooks up with NM-68 and takes you all the way to Taos.

Once in Taos, I got something to eat and went to sit in the quiet gardens of the Mabel Dodge Luhan house where I'd hoped I'd see a few new birds.  I only saw one bird, and it was new to me, a Lewis's Woodpecker.  He was pretty spectacular but he flew off before I could get a photo.  I sat and ate my lunch on a bench and waited for him to come back, and he did!  I also stopped where I stopped before along the way out of Taos to see if the old Dodge truck was still standing out in the open, and it was.

Then it was the last leg of my journey: north on NM-522 to the Colorado state line where it became CO-159, through San Luis for a quick photo stop, and on to Fort Garland where I turned right onto US-160 through the La Veta Pass to Walsenburg.  The pass was beautifully green and lush at this time of the year.  At the bottom of the pass, on the right, you get a beautiful view of the Spanish Peaks.

Local ordinances in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Española, Taos, Las Cruces, and Gallup restrict driving while cell phoning/texting.

Please enjoy some of my favorite photos of Santa Fe.

Readers' responses to this story:
"Wow, what a feast!  I LOVED reading your story and feel as if I've just taken a trip there myself—what a treat.  The B&Bs all look gorgeous and the area so interesting—my desire to come over is tip top high and I can't wait".
Bronwen L; London, England

"What a wonderful trip!  It was as though I was right there with you...thank you for sharing!  Love it, love it, LOVE IT!"  Sue of Sue's Floral & Fine Art Gifts in Fountain, CO.

Hacienda Nicholas Bed and Breakfast   El Farolito Bed and Breakfast Inn   El Paradero Bed and Breakfast Inn

Hacienda Nicholas Bed and Breakfast

Wonderfully close to the historical district in the center of Santa Fe, the Hacienda Nicholas is perfect for all your walking-to sights.  I was met by the wonderfully funny and informative Merrilee who welcomed me and showed me around.  The first thing I noticed was the perfume of the pink roses in the courtyard.  My room was the Chamisa Suite and was directly off the courtyard.  The suite had a bath/shower, toilet, sitting area, a little fridge, coffee machine, bathrobes, and the hugest bed I'd ever slept in.  The bed was so big there were two little stepping stools you could pull out to get into bed.  I had to use them!  A kiva fireplace was also standard for those chilly winter nights.  There is also a communal fireplace outside where one could enjoy a winter's night by the fire.  There are tables and chairs on the patio should you decide to have breakfast there.  I ate my supper outside and worked a little on this story.  Most pleasant and civilized.  I loved the adobe building and accents.  There is also a soap and/or shampoo and conditioner dispenser in the bathroom, and ample soft towels.  I loved that this B&B is "green" in that they recycle everything, conserve water, use non-toxic cleaning materials, and obtain 80% of their electricity from wind power, among other things.
For breakfast there was a fresh fruit salad, cereals and granolas, pumpkin bread, yogurts, Blueberry-stuffed French toast, maple syrup, Canadian bacon, coffee and tea, and orange juice.  The Hacienda Nicholas management is very aware of dietary restrictions and will do their best to accommodate any allergies you might have, so do discuss with them what you can and cannot eat.
Contacts and links to their website are below.  I highly recommend this as a place to stay when you visit Santa Fe, especially the first night, as you'll no doubt be tired from travelling and everything is within a short walking distance from the B&B.  It has a very quiet and peaceful setting.  The gorgeous artwork on display is worth a closer look.  Do visit their sister B&B, The Madeleine (Queen Anne style), where you can also indulge in a Balinese spa at the famous Absolute Nirvana Spa!  Hacienda Nicholas offered me a 10% discount for life for any and all repeat visits!  They'll do it for you too!
Here's my TripAdvisor Review.

El Farolito Bed and Breakfast Inn

Wow, what a gorgeous B&B this turned out to be.  I had the Casita San Pasqual suite which had a spaceous bedroom, wrought iron bed, bath/shower en suite, space for suitcases and hanging space, a fireplace, a sofa and a coffee table, and a tiny kitchen/wet bar, complete with a little sink, coffee machine, and fridge with a few complimentary bottles of water.  There was also a huge television and lots of lamps.  Mindy showed me around and I loved the coziness of the place, with other rooms having their own private entrances and access to small gardens with benches and many, many flowers.  I loved the ceramic artwork in the main building and other artwork which added to the atmosphere.  What also caught my eye was all the turquoise accents, like the napkins, glassware, and such.  With the gentle sound of classical music in the background, I used their Mac computer to check emails and scout out other things to do in Santa Fe.  There is wi-fi but I didn't feel like unpacking my laptop as I still had another museum to visit a little later.  I loved the little patio area just outside my room, complete with flowers and a bubbling fountain.  Adobe and adorable.
Breakfast served by Leah consisted of blueberry almond cake, cinnamon swirl bread, cereals and yogurts, fruit salads to die for which contained segments of apple, orange, grapefruit, pineapple, melon, strawberries, kiwi fruit, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, mango, watermelon, banana, and grapes!  The hot entree was polenta with mushrooms, leeks, peppers, cheese and sun-dried tomatoes.  Absolutely delicious and very satisfying.  I hate to admit it but I went back for a small second helping.  Juices and coffee and tea were also available.
Contacts and links to their website are below.  I would highly recommend this B&B as it's quiet despite being on a busy road, and not too far away from the center of town.
Here's my TripAdvisor Review.

El Paradero Bed and Breakfast Inn

Down a quiet road away from all the hustle and bustle, you'll find the larger-than-appears El Paradero Bed and Breakfast Inn.  Mary met me and showed me around and I saw the sitting room, the library, the kitchen, the dining room, patio/courtyard, and my room down the passage.  Parking is a tight squeeze at the back of the building, and once again I was happy with such a small car.  My room was number 5 and I had a comfortable bed, lamps, an en suite bathroom, hairdryer, and a table and two chairs where I could sit and work.  The wi-fi worked and I caught up with some emails and writing.  There are no televisions in the rooms but you can watch in the sitting room.  Some rooms shared a communal bathroom down the passage.  The room was clean (loved the brick floors) and nicely decorated in southwestern art.  I used the ice machine to fill my ice bucket and keep my water bottles cool as there wasn't a fridge in the room.  I also enjoyed the pretty flower gardens around the patio.  Ask about the history of this place and what it has been in its past.  Also an adobe building.
Breakfast the next morning was on a timed roster, meaning you chose at which time to take breakfast.  Either 8.00am, 8.30am or 9.00am.  I got 8.30am and had lemon ricotta pancakes with lemon sauce and maple syrup, as well as fruit and a two strips of bacon.  Cranberry juice, orange juice, and lemon water as well as coffee and tea were also available.  Their home-made granola was delicious.
Contacts and links to their website are below.  This B&B is just around the corner from the El Farolito and thus just as convenient for a walk into town or to the farmers' market or Railyard.  Not as quiet as the other two B&Bs, but I had a good night's sleep and wasn't disturbed at all.
Here's my TripAdvisor Review.

NOTE: I have to say that I didn't see any children at all at any of the B&Bs, which was wonderful.  Not that I have anything against children, but many people come away to get some peace and quiet and to relax, and it's not easy when there are children about.  I say Bravo to the B&Bs!

I began my journey at the Colorado Springs airport as that's where I rented my car.  South on I-25 to Santa Fe took about five hours and was quite monotonous after leaving Colorado.  I decided that I was not going to repeat the monotony on my return trip, and planned to come home via Taos and the High Road.  The return journey took much longer, but as I had the entire day to get home, it didn't matter.  I saw some gorgeous scenery and am happy I spent much of the day on the road.  From Santa Fe I headed north on US-84/US-285 to Española where I turned right at the McDonald's onto NM-76 to Chimayó.  The road is narrow and not all that well signposted, so lookout for the Santuario de Chimayó sign where you turn right.  Then it was back onto NM-76 East to Taos.  After Taos I headed north on NM-522 which became CO-159 in Colorado.  At Fort Garland I turned right onto US-160 to Walsenburg, and then north on I-25 all the way home.

Enterprise Rent-A-Car
(Colorado Springs Airport Terminal, CO):  A Mazda 2 for 3 days @ $7.99 (I swear!) p/day with unlimited mileage = $53.87 (including taxes) plus your choice of insurance and gas.  I checked and rechecked rates prior to departure and really came up trumps with this wonderfully low rate.  I got approximately 35 mpg from a typical small-car fuel tank of 11.3 gallons.  This little car really delivers as far as comfort and driveability is concerned.  I drove a total of 672 miles.
I loved how easily this little car could turn on a dime and it is very compact without feeling cramped.  Driving up hills and ascending passes was a little testy but the car coped well.  It was just me in the car and it would have struggled had there been more passengers.  The trunk is a nice size and there is a 60/40 fold-down rear seating arrangement.  Also, there are lots of cup holders!
As usual, Enterprise offered me a great service (they don't offer the "we'll pick you up" service from the airport) and their sister company National Car Rental gladly accommodated my rental reservation at the airport check-in desk.  They were just as polite, friendly, and accommodating.  I highly recommend you try Enterprise or National.
Web:  Tel: (719) 591-6644   Toll-free (Reservations): 1-800-261-7331   Toll-free (Customer Service): 1-800-264-6350

Accommodation Contacts
Hacienda Nicholas - 320 East Marcy St, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Tel: (505) 986-1431   Toll-free: 1-888-284-3170
Facebook at
Free wi-fi.
Rates: from $110 - $260 per room based on double occupancy and depending on when you visit and what size accommodation you require.
Visit their website for up-to-date information and rates.  Check ahead of time regarding pets.

El Farolito Bed and Breakfast Inn - 514 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Tel: (505) 988-1631   Toll-free: 1-888-634-8782
Facebook at
Free wi-fi.
Rates: From $160 - $275 per room based on double occupancy and depending on what your requirements are and when you'll be there.
Please visit their website for up-to-date information and rates and whether or not pets are allowed.

El Paradero Bed and Breakfast Inn - 220 West Manhattan - Santa Fe NM 87501
Tel: (505) 988-1177   Toll-free: 1-866-558-0918
Facebook at
Free wi-fi.
Pets: Please check ahead of time.
No television in rooms.
Rates: From $110 to $200 per room based on double occupancy and depending upon which type of accommodation you require and when you plan to travel.
Please visit their website for up-to-date information and rates.

Sights and Museums and Galleries
Do make use of the many brochure stands with any number of publications and pamphlets on art galleries and museums around the city, or even tours outside Santa Fe.  It's not likely that you'll run out of things to see and do!
Loretto Chapel - 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 982-0092
E-mail: none
Facebook at
Fee: $3.00 but check for more information beforehand.
A delightful little chapel with the most beautiful staircase.  Well worth a visit.

Palace of the Governors - 105 West Palace Avenue, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 476-5100
E-mail: Email online on the website.
Facebook No
Fee: All NM residents FREE on Sundays with ID
NM senior citizens age 60+ FREE on Wednesdays
Children 16 and under always FREE
Museum of New Mexico Foundation Members FREE
Friday evenings 5-8 pm FREE
Students with current ID $1 discount
Single visit to one museum: NM residents $6, non-residents $9
One-day pass for two museums: NM residents $12, non-residents $15
Four-day pass to Santa Fe state museums: NM residents $18, non-residents $20
Group rate for 10 or more people: single visit $6, four-day pass $18

New Mexico Museum of Art - 107 West Palace Avenue, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 476-5072
E-mail: Email online on the website.
Fee: Admission to the New Mexico Museum of Art costs $6 for New Mexico residents and $9 for non-residents.
Friday evenings (5 - 8 p.m.) admission is free.

Verve Gallery of Photography - 219 East Marcy Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 982-5009
Facebook No
Fee: No

El Santuario de Chimayó - 15 Santuario Drive, Chimayó, NM 87522
Tel: (505) 983-4609
Facebook No
Fee: No

Mabel Dodge Luhan House - 240 Morada Lane, Taos, NM 87571
Tel: (575) 751-9686   Toll-free: 1-800-846-2235
Free to walk around the grounds.
Georgia O'Keeffe Museum - 217 Johnson Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 946-1000
Facebook at
Visit their website for up-to-date info.
Fee: General Admission - $12; New Mexico Residents - $6; Seniors 60+ - $10; Students 18+ with ID - $10; Military and Law Enforcement - $6; Youth and Students 18 and Under - FREE; First Friday of the month 5 - 7 PM is FREE for New Mexico Residents only. (Regular admission charges apply all other Fridays 5 - 7 PM).

History Museum of New Mexico - 113 Lincoln Avenue, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 476-5200
E-mail: Check again online.
Facebook at
Fee: Admission $9 out-of-state visitors
$6 New Mexico residents
Free on Sunday to New Mexico residents
Free on Wednesday to New Mexico senior citizens
Free to Museum Members and children under 17
Free Friday Evenings 5 to 8 pm

Cathedral of  St. Francis - 131 Cathedral Place, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 982-5619
E-mail: Check online.
Facebook at
Fee: None
A beautiful chapel well worth a visit.  Do notice the stained glass windows.

Randall Davey Audubon Center - 1800 Upper Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 983-4609
E-mail: Check online.
Facebook at
Fee: $2.00 adults and $1.00 children
I saw a huge amount of hummingbirds but didn't have time to walk the trail.  I also saw a black-headed grosbeak.

Santuario De Guadalupe - 100 N Guadalupe Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
Tel: (505) 988-2027
Fee: No

Prices quoted were correct at the time, May 2012.


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