(13-17 April 2015)
Chicago
Philadelphia
Washington, DC
Charlottesville, VA
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Train Route/Map/Tips
Accommodations
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My Hotels
New York Trip
INDEX
Initially my return journey from our 5-night New York trip was going to be just back-tracking to Chicago and La Junta, CO, but if you're a regular to my travel pages, you'll know how much I dislike back-tracking! So the next best thing was to continue on. En route to New York I discovered I had about five hours between trains in Chicago, so I decided to stow my luggage for a few hours and trot around the city and see what I could see. However, once I discovered that it cost $4.00 per hour (with a max of $12 a day) for a small locker, I decided to only spend two hours walking around. I walked all the way down Adams Street to the Millenium Park where I hung out for a while. Had fun trying to take a decent photograph of my reflection in the giant bean!
I then walked towards the beautiful N. Michigan Avenue Du Sable Bridge and the Wrigley Building, both of which I've seen a few times yet never tire of photographing. It was a lovely day and I couldn't help myself. The buildings practically beg to be photographed. I wandered around this lovely city taking photographs, stretching my legs and getting a Subway sandwich to eat on the train for supper. Even though I only had a few hours (in both directions), I think I managed to get a good look at this picturesque city. Unfortunately, for most of this trip the skies were shrouded in clouds or rain.
The next day I awoke on the train to see Lake Erie (frozen) whizz by as we made our way towards New York. I had noticed a young lady on my first leg of this journey, and I saw her again waiting for the Lake Shore Limited train in Chicago. She came over to talk and we decided to sit together on this trip. I lost her once we arrived in New York, so Edwina from Haiti, sorry I didn't get to say goodbye! I had lunch (Angus beef burger) in the train's dining car and sat at a table with three other travellers, trading stories. This is a pretty train route, and if we hadn't been running late, I would have been able to see more of the Hudson River, Like West Point Academy.
My first stop after seven nights in New York, was a brief stop in Philadelphia. Amtrak had screwed up my train booking so instead of sitting around Penn Station for five hours, I hopped on a train to Philly, ran around for a few hours, and caught the afternoon train to Washington DC. (I could do this without paying anything extra as I still had a few unused segments on my rail pass.) I had initially thought of spending a night in this historical city but things didn't work out that way, so I just grabbed a map at the train station and started walking down 30th Street and did some sightseeing, and then caught the subway back to the station and was on my way. The four or so hours I had in Philadelphia were enough to see quite a bit. The 30th Street Station is so beautiful and worth checking out, especially the food hall!
After City Hall, around 15th and Broad Streets, the city starts to lose its lustre. The city was, to me, a little rundown and in a word, depressed. Streets were grubby and I saw so many people with blank stares it was quite alarming. I saw more than a few trying to score drugs from others who looked completely zoned out. Turns out that perhaps it was a good thing I hadn't planned to stay a night and just enjoy what I could during the day and head on south. I walked from 30th Street Station all the way down Market Street to around 5th Street, taking in the very impressive City Hall and surrounding buildings. I didn't have much time to dilly dally but I couldn't stop myself from taking so many photos.
I did get to see some historical buildings like Old City Hall (lost my photo!), Congress Hall and Independence Hall as well as the Liberty Bell, which are concentrated around the Independence Mall area (between 5th and 6th Streets and Arch and Walnut Streets). I also saw Benjamin Franklin's Grave and Betsy Ross's house. Quite thrilling knowing that you are walking around the places that shaped this country all those years ago.
One thing I am sorry I didn't get to see and that was the Philadelphia Museum of Art (or the "Rocky" stairs) as it was a little out of the way and the museum is closed on Mondays. I just touched on what there is to see in this old city but I'm not sure I would make the trip back. Just such a sad place for me. Even the Reading Terminal Market was so badly signposted that I got myself out of there as fast as I could. I couldn't stand not knowing where to go. I did get to see all of the above in a short time and have a philly cheesesteak in the park behind Congress Hall!
After Philadelphia it was on to Washington, DC. Although I had been to DC before, I thought a return trip was in order as well as an overnight stay! The train trip was uneventful, an hour late getting into DC, but the arrival at Union Station was quite an experience. This is easily one of the most beautiful stations (despite its vastness) and should definitely be on your itinerary as something to see in DC. I made my way to my hotel for the night, the Hotel Harrington, right in the heart of the city, easily reachable by either taxi or the Red Line on the subway (Metro Center station).
My visit to Washington DC was marred by heavy rain which made it difficult to take any decent photos, not to mention trying to hang onto an umbrella that was subsequently blown inside out and unceremoniously dumped in a trash can. It was cold and not very pleasant. I saw what I could in the short time I had (Amtrak had managed to snip my late afternoon visit the day before) which began with a walk across the block from the hotel to the Ford's Theatre where Lincoln was shot. With an all-day, one-day Unlimited Trip Pass on Metrorail ($14.50) I made my way to the Pentagon (couldn't see anything from ground-level) and then to Arlington National Cemetery (a walk from the station) when it started raining. I did manage to see RFK's and JFK's gravesites but not the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (I had seen it before) without slipping on the many displaced saucer magnolia tree blossoms, which are absolutely beautiful I should add. I was fortunate enough to watch a military funeral taking place, complete with horse parade and boots turned backwards on a riderless horse.
A quick trip to see the Kennedy Center for the Arts and the Watergate buildings in the background was in order.
From the hotel you can, and I did, easily walk along any of the wide boulevards towards the White House, the Washington Monument from where I could barely see the Lincoln Memorial and the empty Reflecting Pool (thankfully I didn't walk all the way in the pelting rain to try and see the Vietnam Veteran's Memorial and the other war memorials) before I headed off in search of somewhere dry. I found the Elephant & Castle Pub where I had the most delicious haddock and chips ever! ($13.50 before tax and tip) I did see some pretty impressive buildings but struggled in the wind and rain to take decent photos. There was so much construction and/or renovation going on that even the Capitol's dome was under scaffolding.
I caught the 4.50pm train to Charlottesville, VA after my night in DC. Charlottesville turned out to be a wonderful stop and I am so thankful I chose to stop here for a night and half a day. It was just a half-day because of Amtrak's delay the day before. The train trip wasn't a long one and we passed some lovely scenery along the way, but because Amtrak was delayed numerous times, it meant that I had to cut short my already brief visits which annoyed me no end.
I arrived at the adorable little train station in Charlottesville, VA, walked through the parking lot to W. Main Street where I hopped on a free trolley outside Mel's Cafe to the Ruppel Drive (or South Lawn) stop, crossed the street and continued walking in the same direction the trolley was going to the first left turn which is Oakhurst Circle, and wham, there was my stop for the night, the Oakhurst Inn.
The next morning, continuing in the overcast and rainy vein, I walked back the same way to Ruppel Drive and turned left and proceeded to discover an enchanting array of university buildings which were fantastic. Mostly red brick with white window shutters and trim, and the most white columns I have ever seen in one place, made for a wonderful morning of discovery. All of the area is part and parcel of the famous University of Virginia, founded by Thomas Jefferson. I walked across The Lawn which itself is a sight to see. Surrounded by a rectangle of university rooms is this long, green lawn that you can walk across at various intervals on bricked walkways. At the north end is the beautiful Rotunda (under renovation at the time) and at the other end is the Old Cabell Hall which is definitely worth going into just to see all the beautiful wall murals in the entry hall.
Don't miss the UA Chapel on the north side of the Rotunda (along McCormick Road) which is just beautiful. I was fortunate that the doors were unlocked and I could go inside and marvel at the exquisite stained glass windows. I couldn't get enough of them and although the interior was peaceful and serene, I couldn't help myself taking so many photos.
After walking around The Corner district (along University Avenue) which is worth checking out for the quaint stores and the delicious bagels to be had from Bodo's Bagels (I bought two to have for supper on the train), I hopped onto a trolley for a ride to the Historic Downtown Mall. This area has been brick paved for pedestrians and features an array of stores and eateries and some unexpected art scattered about! This is where I decided, around 9.30am, to have some breakfast, at Chaps. (I had left the inn around 7.30am to try and cram in as much as I could before leaving on the 1.57pm train for Chicago. So essentially, I just had the morning to see Charlottesville.) Breakfast was a coffee ($1 and delicious!) and a bacon, egg and cheese on rye ($3.85) and you can have omelets, bagels or breakfast platters all day. I loved the '50s decor. Pity it wasn't later in the day so I could sample their famous homemade ice cream!
Do investigate the streets to the north of Water Street as you'll come across some amazing little grassy squares complete with flower beds and statues. You might even see the oldest house in downtown Charlottesville or the lovely statue of Robert E. Lee. See if you can visit their beautiful library as well. The lovely thing about the free trolleys is that you can do a complete trip and then decide where you want to spend more time. If I had had more time, I would have done this.
Once again I was in awe of the art scattered around. Charlottesville is known for art and this I will have to see on another trip. There is so much I didn't have time to see that I feel a second visit is more than warranted. I really liked the atmosphere of this little city and at times felt that at any minute a bewigged gentleman would turn a corner and bump into me. There is so much history to this adorable place reflecting so much that is Thomas Jefferson. A visit to his home Monticello might also be an order of business.
I really enjoyed this place and will come back with time to spare. I'd love to see a few art galleries and perhaps do a wine tour.
TIPS: Always allow quite a while between Amtrak train connections as they are known for delays. Take along a little blanket and if possible a pillow as it's cold at the night in the train and the headrest offers very little support. Nothing worse than a stiff neck to contend with on vacation. A sleeper mask is a great idea as the lights in the trains at night are quite bright.
Accommodations
Hotel Harrington Oakhurst Inn
